MY house build to begin.

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fatbob
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Post by fatbob » August 31, 2015, 12:01 pm

I notice you have hip roofs, your sheets are going to be cut at 45deg up the hips, with that type of insulation it will be hard to cut noting that you MUST NOT use an angle grinder with metal cutting wheel, with colour bond it is tin snips only, if they use an angle grinder make sure the sheets are cut on the back side only then washed down thoroughly with a rag and soapy water and hosed down, the hot sparks will burn through the paint then the metal spark filing will rust, the edge cut with a wheel will rust due to heat, if cut with snips it dosen't rust. When they finish every day get them to sweep the roof and hose down, every screw leaves a metal filing, again these will rust and eat through the paint, on installation these things a very important for the longevity of the roof. Aussie roofing plumbers do not ever use an angle grinder on roof sheets.



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Barney
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Post by Barney » August 31, 2015, 12:46 pm

coxo wrote:I notice you have hip roofs, your sheets are going to be cut at 45deg up the hips, with that type of insulation it will be hard to cut noting that you MUST NOT use an angle grinder with metal cutting wheel, with colour bond it is tin snips only, if they use an angle grinder make sure the sheets are cut on the back side only then washed down thoroughly with a rag and soapy water and hosed down, the hot sparks will burn through the paint then the metal spark filing will rust, the edge cut with a wheel will rust due to heat, if cut with snips it dosen't rust. When they finish every day get them to sweep the roof and hose down, every screw leaves a metal filing, again these will rust and eat through the paint, on installation these things a very important for the longevity of the roof. Aussie roofing plumbers do not ever use an angle grinder on roof sheets.

Thanks for the heads up Coxo,
I am not in udon for this work, stuck back in China.
I will pass on the suggestions to the guy managing the work.
It is not a local Udon roofing team. These guys have come to town yesterday specifically for the delivery and are contracted by Bluescope as part of the package to do the work. Similar to the team that installed the frames and trusses. I would assume that they are trained and familiar with installation techniques to keep the product in the bluescope guarantee. But you never know, so I will pass your comments on. Always good to have relevant comment, thanks.

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Barney
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Post by Barney » August 31, 2015, 12:53 pm

Plumbing has been completed for the internals of the house.
Have the top of the line green welded pipe for incoming pressurized water and the better blue grade for the drainage.
Do not want any risk of leaks in the gyprok walls with inferior pipe.
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Barney
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Post by Barney » September 3, 2015, 11:27 am

Stardate 03092015

Roof sheeting guys have started and even with the rain they are plowing ahead. This is a reasonable size roof area and they seem to be OK so far.
After the first day of on the roof they have the full front house section done and the gutter sections in place.
You can see one of the cut angle sections showing the double insulation for the Thermotach technology.
One advantage of the design is the sheets is designated to a place on the roof and are all cut at different lengths to suit each location. Just the angle section at the top needs to be trimmed.
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pal52
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Post by pal52 » September 3, 2015, 11:41 am

Plumbing has been completed for the internals of the house.
Have the top of the line green welded pipe for incoming pressurized water and the better blue grade for the drainage.
Do not want any risk of leaks in the gyprok walls with inferior pipe.

I would make sure they do a pressure test on the pipework.
Any small leaks will not show for a few weeks or months.
It is very difficult to get a Builder to do a pressure test in Thailand.
It took 6 months for leaks to show under the concrete when my house was built.
The only way I knew there was a leak was my pump was running more often until it was constantly running.
I had to dig up concrete to find the leak.

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Barney
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Post by Barney » September 3, 2015, 11:54 am

pal52 wrote:Plumbing has been completed for the internals of the house.
Have the top of the line green welded pipe for incoming pressurized water and the better blue grade for the drainage.
Do not want any risk of leaks in the gyprok walls with inferior pipe.

I would make sure they do a pressure test on the pipework.
Any small leaks will not show for a few weeks or months.
It is very difficult to get a Builder to do a pressure test in Thailand.
It took 6 months for leaks to show under the concrete when my house was built.
The only way I knew there was a leak was my pump was running more often until it was constantly running.
I had to dig up concrete to find the leak.
Thanks pal52,
Glad your keeping me on my toes.

The pressure test was done for the installed piping sections and all OK. I'll have to ask what pressure though. He has a small unit he brings to site. Also have had the concrete pool tested and it was filled and left for 1 week, all ok. He uses the pressure unit to check his plumbing installation on the pool filter and pump pipes.
You will notice the plugs in the green incoming pipes. These were in place for the test.
I have the same guy building the pool and doing all plumbing external and internal. He is very good and works building pools and plumbing on resorts and condo's. He appears very good and professional.
Part of the reason I had the house raised was exactly what you mention, having access to plumbing etc under the house for any maintenance and additions.
Thanks Again

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maaka
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Post by maaka » September 4, 2015, 5:27 am

only Buddha knows what will happen when we switch on the water at our abode when the time comes, probably have a water feature in every room...but looking good Barney

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Post by bluejets » September 4, 2015, 5:29 am

That wouldn't be grinding debris all over the sheets in pic 2334 and 2335 would it?
If it is you are in for early problem with rust eating through the sheets.

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Barney
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Post by Barney » September 4, 2015, 6:23 am

bluejets wrote:That wouldn't be grinding debris all over the sheets in pic 2334 and 2335 would it?
If it is you are in for early problem with rust eating through the sheets.

Bluejets,

Yes it may well be debris on those articular pieces. They have been told to wipe and clean the sheets on the roof which I am told they are doing.
The sections in the photo are the offcuts to be tossed out.
I'll reinforce the message to the girl.
They wont need to take water up as its been raining while they do the work. :D

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fatbob
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Post by fatbob » September 4, 2015, 7:50 am

I hate to say it Barney but the sparks are red hot they instantly burn through the paint, your sheet surface will feel like fine sandpaper, metal filings that will start to rust within 24 hours, they must flip the sheets if they use a cut off wheel.

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Barney
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Post by Barney » September 4, 2015, 10:21 am

Bluejets and Coxo,

I fully understand what you are advising but I am not there to oversee 8-[ . The installation team are the bluescope subcontractor trained in the installation. I have sent word to ensure that the cutting is to standard with the correct tools.
The cut off sheets in photos do not appear to have any burning of paint and being a positive thinker I am assuming the dark specs are from the cutting of dark insulation in the 3 piece sandwich, of 2 insulations and the 1 sheet. Shown in the earlier photo. \:D/ Most likely stuck there due to the rain and wet conditions.

Quality of product (including all screws, capping, sheets supplied by bluescope) and workmanship are part of the Bluescope guarantee. It is not sheeting from mum and dad's hardware store.

Thanks for posting and again I do take comments seriously.

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Barney
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Post by Barney » September 19, 2015, 9:18 am

Delivery of the DOS tanks and pump arrival. 4 x 2000 ltr above ground water tanks. 1 x 2000 litre sewer tank. 1 x grunfos pump.
The 10,000 litre underground fiberglass tank to follow once excavation and concrete base is poured to lift straight in.
Procured straight from the DOS agent. Received a better overall package price on each item then the home pro type shops.
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Post by Barney » September 22, 2015, 11:53 am

Electrical has been a busy team with the rough in of the ceiling and wall cabling, mounting of the 2 circuit breaker boards, incoming pole install and cable to house, A/C piping, cable and drainage, security cables, CCTV, 4 independent galavanised grounding rods for steel house frame, 1 copper coated rod for power grounding.

All went to plan to allow as you can see gyprok and external walls to commence.
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Barney
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Post by Barney » September 22, 2015, 12:14 pm

pal52 wrote:Plumbing has been completed for the internals of the house.
Have the top of the line green welded pipe for incoming pressurized water and the better blue grade for the drainage.
Do not want any risk of leaks in the gyprok walls with inferior pipe.

I would make sure they do a pressure test on the pipework.
Any small leaks will not show for a few weeks or months.
It is very difficult to get a Builder to do a pressure test in Thailand.
It took 6 months for leaks to show under the concrete when my house was built.
The only way I knew there was a leak was my pump was running more often until it was constantly running.
I had to dig up concrete to find the leak.
Pal52
Just thought I would follow up with a photo of the pressure test that was performed on my plumbing. The pressure was applied and held for 3 days.
Thanks for you post and a good reminder to all and, certainly as can be attested by people leaks do appear unnoticed after a while, usually in the most hidden or hard to get to locations.
Your plumber should be able to do the test. Perhaps some of the village guys won't have the test unit. My guy builds pools with associated plumbing and also plumbs up apartment buildings and does have the gear.
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Post by bluejets » September 22, 2015, 1:48 pm

Don't like the idea of glued plastic joints in the water supply lines inside wall cavities.

Guess it's the way it's done there but ..........mmmmm.

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Barney
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Post by Barney » September 22, 2015, 3:18 pm

bluejets wrote:Don't like the idea of glued plastic joints in the water supply lines inside wall cavities.

Guess it's the way it's done there but ..........mmmmm.
Thanks Bluejets,
All water supply lines in the house are in the green welded pipe and pressure tested as per my other post.
The yellow water lines are only the drains for the split A/C units, but I have requested the installer recheck that they are fully glued and not just pushed together. He is the sparky and does the AC units, he has already provided 2 new AC's, modified plumbing, Hitachi water pump in the old house adjacent to the new build and his quality is very good. That is why he is back.


Guess it's the way it's done there but ..........mmmmm.

Take your point on this comment and making my house build not done the usual Thai way has been, and still is a struggle. Being away on work assignment and not being there at the moment is hard but my missus is on board with me and knows that when I say I want it a certain way that's what I want to get, she will push that point to the guys. There have been a number of changes back to what I want, at no cost, the contractors get the message. But I do listen to what they propose.
Unfortunately due to this factor our nightly cam talks on Facetime can get heated, and at times they are cut short and there is no good bye kiss..... :lol:

Photo of welded green pipe in walls.
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Post by maaka » September 23, 2015, 6:53 am

Barney do you know much about the green and blue water pipes..
we were supposed to have the same in our hut, but the missus got all blue, and now I am concerned what will happen if I squirt hot water thru the blue pipes...are the green and blue made of different compounds, or just colored differently to signal what is hot and what is cold.???

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Post by pal52 » September 23, 2015, 7:42 am

The yellow water lines are only the drains for the split A/C units, but I have requested the installer recheck that they are fully glued and not just pushed together

Barney the yellow pipes are your electrical conduits & normally not glued so you can split them to get cables in easier. Do not confuse them with water pipes.
The condensate drain lines are normally grey pipe & insulated.
You seem to have a lot of blue pipes which I assume are only drain pipes.

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Barney
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Post by Barney » September 23, 2015, 8:09 am

pal52 wrote:The yellow water lines are only the drains for the split A/C units, but I have requested the installer recheck that they are fully glued and not just pushed together

Barney the yellow pipes are your electrical conduits & normally not glued so you can split them to get cables in easier. Do not confuse them with water pipes.
The condensate drain lines are normally grey pipe & insulated.
You seem to have a lot of blue pipes which I assume are only drain pipes.
Hi Pal52,
Thaks for the query.
I hope I am not confused and perhaps I have not explained it correctly on the posts. :D
I am an electrician so understand the electrical conduits.
1) Blue pipes are all drainage and go through the floor. Will be plumbed to sewer or grey water systems under the elevated floor.
2) Green pipes are the water feed pipes to all areas( these as explained have been pressure tested), again coming through the floors and piped underneath the house to minimize pipes in the walls. I have 2 incoming feed systems which can be changed via a valve system if required. One from the above ground 4 x 2000 ltr town water tanks, 2nd line is from the 10,000 ltr DOS underground storm water storage tank, fed from the roof. All pipes coming via a filter system. Can use either town or storm tanks for feeding both lines.
3) The AC's have their designated lines to the outside condenser unit under the house as per normal and the yellow drip drain lines seen were used and perhaps they were wrong type and colour but will suffice for the mean time. They are glued.
4) All cabling is done via 2 methods, yellow conduits and open wiring in the roof. Some of the yellow conduits will be spare to far sections of the ceiling just for future spares. But the security and CCTV are in conduits, either yellow or steel flex. You will notice I also have some flexible metal conduits in the walls from outlet to outlet, especially behind the walls that will be tiled, in case I need to repair and pull later. Kitchen and bedroom ensuites are the example.
5) I also have a separate electric supply and power board for the 2 underground rooms, for pool lights, pumps/filter room and the TV room

A lot of my thought has gone into plumbing and electrics so hope it is all good on the night. When we turn the power on. =D>

Hope that it explains it more clearly, :lol:

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Barney
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Post by Barney » September 23, 2015, 8:22 am

maaka wrote:Barney do you know much about the green and blue water pipes..
we were supposed to have the same in our hut, but the missus got all blue, and now I am concerned what will happen if I squirt hot water thru the blue pipes...are the green and blue made of different compounds, or just colored differently to signal what is hot and what is cold.???
Maaka,

All pipes can take hot or cold, depending on temp setting I suppose?
During my checks for what type of water pipe I was advised by my plumber there are 3 types.
Blue lower grade
Blue higher grade
Green the bees knees and best as the joints are sealed and can be tested to the pressure of your pump. I asked for 120% test pressure.

I used higher grade blue for all drainage and the green for incoming lines.
That is not to say the higher blue is not OK. It is Ok for incoming water lines. But my concern was I have a steel frame house with gyprok plaster walls ( no blocks or concrete above the slab) and did not want any risk of leaking pipes damaging walls. I don't have much green pipe in the walls anyway.
I'm sure if your missus used the higher grade all will be well. \:D/

Using the expensive green pipes was one thing I had to overcome with thais wanting blue every where. Because it is cheaper. The plumber boss was good and understood what I wanted. Quality and a the best material fit for purpose is lost in their constant cheap Charlie thinking to save a few baht. OOOiii !!! :-"

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