"I hooked up with True for an air card as my ISP but the speed is suckin' something fierce."
There has been a major break in the undersea internet cables off the coast of Vietnam. This is slowing things down.
Reports are that it will not be fully fixed until mid-October
There has been a major break in the undersea internet cables off the coast of Vietnam. This is slowing things down.
Reports are that it will not be fully fixed until mid-October
I took the air card back as it was only 5gb per month download, not speed.
Ater you use it up, it pretty much stops until the first of the next month.
Nothing I can use.
I want back to CAT and they're going to run a fiber optics cable.
20 down and 8 up at 1600 a month. 8 down and 4 up for 850. Good to go but 400 in que and a months wait.
Guess I'll just have to wait.
Statistics: Posted by Baht Man — September 28, 2014, 3:09 pm
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Statistics: Posted by dogger — September 20, 2014, 9:11 am
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Reports are that it will not be fully fixed until mid-October
Statistics: Posted by Nong Bua Dave — September 20, 2014, 8:32 am
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, and it's single use only, no wi-fi.Went to CAT today and they'll run an optics cable here and provide 8 down and 3 up for 860 B a month, 20 and 7 for double that.
Problem is the que of about 400 ahead of me and even an offer of a bit of tea money was rejected.
I'm lookin' at a months wait so I'll be crusin' looking for some unsecured wireless or hangin' out at Caspers more as the True card is going back monyana.
In time ..... "I'll be back"
Statistics: Posted by Baht Man — September 19, 2014, 8:08 pm
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Starting to look great, Baht Man.I've got to sign off for while folks.
Started to move and I still neet to sort out a new internet connection at the new place.
I'll be back soon with some interesting updates.
Stay tuned
If you need a hand with anything gimme a call. =D>
Statistics: Posted by Baht Man — September 19, 2014, 7:55 pm
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You are likely to get a price per square meter. I was quoted 25 baht per square meter. That sounds high but it includes preparation and painting wooden trim with enamel. There is a lot more to painting than spreading the paint with a brush and roller. Average painters will have splatter all over everything and as much paint on the ground as they have on the wall. That price is for labor only. He suggested what paint he thought was the longest lasting and the best brand. The house is now finished and I am happy with the work.
I have never heard of a brand called Beger Shield but that is the brand he liked for exterior color.
Statistics: Posted by glalt — September 7, 2014, 9:55 am
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From my wife's experience with our house rebuild I would contract the labor and get the paint yourself so you can insure quality and color of paint.We paid 17,000 to paint 2 floors of our small shophouse (paint, labor, and cleanup). However, we were under some time constraints and did not get any competitive bids. I would guess the job you describe to be close to 50,000, but I could be wrong. Labor is cheap, but paint is not.I need to get my home painted in Udon in the next year or so. The house was built in 2002 and hasn't been painted since then. It blimin needs it. Inside and out. It's two stories, 4 bedrooms (2 smallish) plus a maids room. It's pretty high in places. How much do you guys think this might cost for the paint and labour? I was thinking 20,000 plus baht.
I don't live in Udon and I'm not going to spend my annual holiday in Udon doing it myself.
](https://www.udonmap.com/udonthaniforum/images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif "Brick wall"){kind=small}
Statistics: Posted by BigBubba — September 6, 2014, 9:56 am
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We paid 17,000 to paint 2 floors of our small shophouse (paint, labor, and cleanup). However, we were under some time constraints and did not get any competitive bids. I would guess the job you describe to be close to 50,000, but I could be wrong. Labor is cheap, but paint is not.I need to get my home painted in Udon in the next year or so. The house was built in 2002 and hasn't been painted since then. It blimin needs it. Inside and out. It's two stories, 4 bedrooms (2 smallish) plus a maids room. It's pretty high in places. How much do you guys think this might cost for the paint and labour? I was thinking 20,000 plus baht.
I don't live in Udon and I'm not going to spend my annual holiday in Udon doing it myself.
Statistics: Posted by Stantheman — September 5, 2014, 8:35 pm
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I've got to sign off for while folks.
Started to move and I still neet to sort out a new internet connection at the new place.
I'll be back soon with some interesting updates.
Stay tuned
Starting to look great, Baht Man. Started to move and I still neet to sort out a new internet connection at the new place.
I'll be back soon with some interesting updates.
Stay tuned
If you need a hand with anything gimme a call. =D>
Statistics: Posted by Los Amigos — September 5, 2014, 3:31 pm
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I need to get my home painted in Udon in the next year or so. The house was built in 2002 and hasn't been painted since then. It blimin needs it. Inside and out. It's two stories, 4 bedrooms (2 smallish) plus a maids room. It's pretty high in places. How much do you guys think this might cost for the paint and labour? I was thinking 20,000 plus baht.
I don't live in Udon and I'm not going to spend my annual holiday in Udon doing it myself.
We paid 17,000 to paint 2 floors of our small shophouse (paint, labor, and cleanup). However, we were under some time constraints and did not get any competitive bids. I would guess the job you describe to be close to 50,000, but I could be wrong. Labor is cheap, but paint is not.I don't live in Udon and I'm not going to spend my annual holiday in Udon doing it myself.
Statistics: Posted by BigBubba — September 5, 2014, 2:25 pm
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Started to move and I still neet to sort out a new internet connection at the new place.
I'll be back soon with some interesting updates.
Stay tuned
Statistics: Posted by Baht Man — September 5, 2014, 12:18 pm
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Been following with interest Baht man, a quality build and good tips for prospective home builds, certainly beats the crap out of the builds by a certain builder around here, 
just shows what can be done by robust hippie with a few clues. thanks for sharing.
just shows what can be done by robust hippie with a few clues. thanks for sharing.In case you haven't noticed lately. make that a semi-robbust hippie.
Call me P. You have the number. If not I'm sure you hae Jeeds
Statistics: Posted by Baht Man — September 5, 2014, 12:14 pm
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I don't live in Udon and I'm not going to spend my annual holiday in Udon doing it myself.
Statistics: Posted by GT93 — August 31, 2014, 12:14 pm
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Statistics: Posted by dogger — August 31, 2014, 11:48 am
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Statistics: Posted by reddevil — August 31, 2014, 8:38 am
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Thais will generally water down latex paint way beyond the recommended dilution ratio because they think it will go further and cost less. Most latex paint label instructions overhere suggest that you can add up to 10% water. I would suggest much less than that to get effective coverage.
Agreed on the thinning. They have a tendency to add to much.I tried using some paint straight out of the bucket, but it really did need some water.They did three top coats inside after the primer.
Statistics: Posted by Baht Man — August 31, 2014, 7:49 am
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Can you tell me what brand of paint that you used inside and out? as I am about to start on a reno and extension.
Thanks
macca46
It was all 4 Seasons paint but not necessarly all their colors. Some colors may have been mixed to match other brand colors.Thanks
macca46
Statistics: Posted by Baht Man — August 30, 2014, 9:19 pm
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Elec. is finished and the promise of the plumber coming is ongoing. Two days ago I located another one and told the builder I'll finish it myself.
I told him 600/day labor and he said "why so much"? I told him it was a bargin b/c in the past he told me his tile man got 1000/day. The shoe's on the other foot now.
My guy showed up (500 day + 100 corruption) and was suprised with the mess he saw. Fittings in the wrong location, stub-outs wrong and a general lack of basic workmanship.
Tiles will have to be cut in 2 of the bathrooms and he didn't really want to mess things up.
I sent him home after a half days work at the full pay. It'll be backcharged to the builder of course.
He suggested that my guy not do the cutting (I was in agreement, as he was not a tile guy) and he promissed help was on the way.
The next day the builder sent 2 retards to work here. Certainly not plumbers by the look of things. After 20 min. I told them to go home. The builder showed up 20 min. later to set them straight. General laborers that they were, they began the task of running 2 water lines to the front of the house for hose connections.
We summoned the builder for another meeting two days later. I very calmly and without looking at the builder, told builder thru the Ms. " There's no reason this house should not be finished by now, and I have to pay 3000 baht for the rent house every month, plus elec.and water and on this house as well. I will not pay anymore rent after this month and will have to charge you if it's not finished by months end. You told me 150 days, now it's 300.
She relayed my message (but changed the rent amount from 3000 to 9000 :-"
He said he understood and will finish this month (about 10 days) b/c he don't want to pay my rent.
The tile guy showed up out of the blue and was to complete the interior plumbing in the baths and kitchens. Ok, so now I've got a tile guy doing my plumbing. But I knew this guy was skilled and quite methodical in his work so I let him have at it. In the 5 days since, one kitchen and all the baths are done properly.
Only the outdoor kithen remains and the grey plastic plumbing that came with the one sink will be changed to proper PVC due to leaks.
I've also determined a better solution for the grey water issues from discussions here and elsewhere. The 6 - 2" discharge lines from the house were dumped into the 2-3 ring holes. . I knew it was not the proper way of doing it and storing grey water made no sense, albeit easy for the builder.
I had the builder lay a 3" line from the furthest ring, down the back of the house and another 20 m in a "french drain" type, although I know it won't perk out. The line continued to a section of paddy.
All the 2"drain lines along the way were connected to the 3" collection pipe.
He understood "90 degree sweeps" but I had to stay and show the workers which way to install them.
That was accomplished in two days, and was really the last of my major issues concerning the design. Thanks for all the input and advice on this, and to those that came here for a look see, it was a great help.... =D>
I wasn't there to take a pic or check the slope, but all seems well....but I've said that before.
Downspouts were finally added after months of erosion
He's not going to remove the 6 rings, so if anyone wants them, I know exactly where they are.
While they worked on the downspouts, the rest of the gang formed up what would be the perimeter walkway and filled in the washed out areas at the old abandoned grey water rings.
Later the next day, C-Pac pulled up with 5 cm. and they got busy. Of course the builder will now have to deal with the cement splashed on the walls.
I build a lot of pools back in the day, all with perimeter decks and 99% involved bender boards for a free formed look. I had some old trim left and showed them how to use it.
Back soon...
Statistics: Posted by Baht Man — August 29, 2014, 8:03 am
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Your Design and attention to detail on this project is excellent. It is without a doubt as good as anything else I have seen in Thailand. I'm sure this thread has been not only interesting but also a great help to anyone considering building a house.
The Subject title "Let the headaches begin" says it all really, you knew what you was in for, most people don't and end up accepting less than they want. Keep the updates coming.
OT............
Well OT, thnks for the kind thoughts.The Subject title "Let the headaches begin" says it all really, you knew what you was in for, most people don't and end up accepting less than they want. Keep the updates coming.
OT............
I only knew what to expect from other stories here and there, and expected the worse. Self medication now and then helped.
As I'd mentioned prior, I had no plans, or architect involment, only a downloaded artists rendering of the front elevation to go by.
Interior and exterior color schemes were on the fly as well as soffit and ceiling drops and interior layout.
The lighting location was a gamble as I only wanted LEDS installed. The main room is 7m wide by 14 long and is lit quite well with only 3 -5 watt cool white lamps on each side of the sloped ceiling, about 2.5m off the floor.
There are 11- 5 watt warm white LED's in the dropped soffit and using them as wall wash with the others off is quite dramatic.
The lighting effect created by the angles on the walls and floors turned out to be a pleasant surprise.
Thanks again.
Statistics: Posted by Baht Man — August 28, 2014, 3:52 pm
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Thanks
macca46
Statistics: Posted by macca46 — August 28, 2014, 2:54 pm
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Food for thought on the wiring for the kitchen: 12 or so years ago several houses were built to American-government standards in Udon.....designed for an all-electric kitchen.I fired up both the oven on high and the induction hob, all 4 surfaces.
The hop will boil 1/2" of water in a large fry pan in about 15 seconds. The pan gets hot but not the glass surface.
Pull the pan off and the magnetic connection is broken, the hop shuts down and the surface is only warm from the pan.
Of course this meant buying new cookware.
The oven didn't work so sparky took it to the breaker box and wired it direct.
No go....but then he turned the timer. Seems it has to be set for it to heat up. Makes sense to me...I guess.
Reinstall, and cranked everything up...time to eat..
Upon final inspection, it was determined the wiring was inadequate to support electric appliances (stove/oven/dryer/etc)......the contractor had to rip it all out and rewire.
Before you release you electrician, you might want to switch everything on in the kitchen for 10 or so minutes....along with some other high demand appliances in the house (hot water/air)....and give everything a test drive. Easier to fix now.....then later after everyone's gone and you've moved in.
I've ran the oven and hob and lights etc.. Awaiting on the A/C later this week for a fll on elec. test.
Thanks
Statistics: Posted by Baht Man — August 28, 2014, 1:57 pm
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OT............
Statistics: Posted by old-timer — August 20, 2014, 1:31 pm
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I fired up both the oven on high and the induction hob, all 4 surfaces.
The hop will boil 1/2" of water in a large fry pan in about 15 seconds. The pan gets hot but not the glass surface.
Pull the pan off and the magnetic connection is broken, the hop shuts down and the surface is only warm from the pan.
Of course this meant buying new cookware.
The oven didn't work so sparky took it to the breaker box and wired it direct.
No go....but then he turned the timer. Seems it has to be set for it to heat up. Makes sense to me...I guess.
Reinstall, and cranked everything up...time to eat..
Food for thought on the wiring for the kitchen: 12 or so years ago several houses were built to American-government standards in Udon.....designed for an all-electric kitchen. The hop will boil 1/2" of water in a large fry pan in about 15 seconds. The pan gets hot but not the glass surface.
Pull the pan off and the magnetic connection is broken, the hop shuts down and the surface is only warm from the pan.
Of course this meant buying new cookware.
The oven didn't work so sparky took it to the breaker box and wired it direct.
No go....but then he turned the timer. Seems it has to be set for it to heat up. Makes sense to me...I guess.
Reinstall, and cranked everything up...time to eat..
Upon final inspection, it was determined the wiring was inadequate to support electric appliances (stove/oven/dryer/etc)......the contractor had to rip it all out and rewire.
Before you release you electrician, you might want to switch everything on in the kitchen for 10 or so minutes....along with some other high demand appliances in the house (hot water/air)....and give everything a test drive. Easier to fix now.....then later after everyone's gone and you've moved in.
Statistics: Posted by parrot — August 20, 2014, 10:18 am
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Love the windows amongst every ting else, stupendous deign, I haven't got a truck now as I cant drive so this is my only way of keeping in touch with progress.
Ya know P, it's about 3K from your place to mine and you'e got that fancy bke. Put it to use.I've not been down to cricket latly b/c of the build, but I'll stop by your place soon and say hi.
Cheers
Statistics: Posted by Baht Man — August 20, 2014, 9:57 am
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well all those fancy ceilings look nice but in reality they are dust-spiderweb keepers and not really practical at all...
we've had them in our former home too...
looks like you have the same septics as we have put in , they were also to low and solved it same by making a waterproof manhole , sticking 5cm above the ground level preventing from rainwater poring in the manhole and the septic whom lid is not really watertight...so i think in your case they are still to low....
as of of the installation of the boiler , my god ...
this how i did it myself ...connected the boiler to a timer heating up the water once a day in morning , the water stays hot enough all day , no need in warming up all day costing only more electricity...and waterconnections with the over fow of the pressure valve directed outside ( her always water comes out after heating) ....how are you gpoing to remove (tiling the wall ) or fix anything when connected as it is now?
as info ....
Sorry, but after careful consideration and a lot of pondering, I just can't bring myself to agree that your boiler connection as shown looks cleaner and simplier than this, we've had them in our former home too...
looks like you have the same septics as we have put in , they were also to low and solved it same by making a waterproof manhole , sticking 5cm above the ground level preventing from rainwater poring in the manhole and the septic whom lid is not really watertight...so i think in your case they are still to low....
as of of the installation of the boiler , my god ...
this how i did it myself ...connected the boiler to a timer heating up the water once a day in morning , the water stays hot enough all day , no need in warming up all day costing only more electricity...and waterconnections with the over fow of the pressure valve directed outside ( her always water comes out after heating) ....how are you gpoing to remove (tiling the wall ) or fix anything when connected as it is now?
as info ....
Statistics: Posted by Baht Man — August 20, 2014, 9:16 am
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