New 600,000 baht house

Post by **wazza** » October 19, 2015, 10:54 am

Im.trying to delete images I have of you two in the Issan mixed syncronised swimming competition.

Barney is a Budgie Smuggler for sure..Light Blue no doubt.

Post by **maaka** » October 19, 2015, 7:18 pm

I'm a black mankini with a peg on me nose

Post by **maaka** » October 20, 2015, 3:28 pm

poo tank grease rings
grease trap
view from internal garage of back door with separate bathroom
bench seat in bathroom
stain glass for extra light in bathroom
kitchen cupboards not fire places

Post by **mickojak** » October 20, 2015, 10:50 pm

Maaka,
I see the size of your grease trap.
I can easily put one in.
Thanks
Mick

Post by **JohnG** » October 20, 2015, 11:25 pm

What's the size of pipe going into the grease trap? If its not too late it may be an idea to use a 2" pipe for a kitchen drain if you can, as this looks like 1".

Post by **maaka** » October 21, 2015, 12:57 am

IT LOOKED 2' BUT WILL CHECK TODAY

Post by **maaka** » October 21, 2015, 1:07 am

RODLOADS OF DIRT TO COVER THEM, ANGER THAT MICK
BECAUSE WE ARE SURROUNDED BY RICE FIELDS OUR PIPES ARE ABOVE GROUND SO WE WILL HAVE TO PUT IN TRUCK LOADS OF DIRT..WATER TABLE ONLY 3M DOWN..HAD TROUBLE SINKING THE POO TANK..BUILDER HAS DONE 100'S SO i AM IN HIS HANDS..ITS A WAIT AND SEE EXERCISE

Post by **maaka** » October 21, 2015, 1:07 am

bloody computer

Post by **Barney** » October 21, 2015, 6:17 am

maaka wrote:IT LOOKED 2' BUT WILL CHECK TODAY

Maaka

It doesn't matter what size pipe you have, it is all dependent on the size of the inlet pipe thread connection. As long as it is the same size and not smaller then the pipe thread in the grease trap box that's all you need. Looks like the plumber has it correct from the photo.

With the depth of the poo tank as long as you have gravity fall towards it, we all know what flows down hill.

Post by **maaka** » October 21, 2015, 7:13 am

rodger that Barney
the pipes are the same size and borh thread straight onto the greasy box.
I have hounded them about the successful operation of the septic system and they keep looking offended everytime I question thier appraoch.. missus say they know what they doing, they do many, and live in the village...so I have backed off....everything runs downhill, if not to steeply,there is water in the greasebox, so he has obviously tested it..

Post by **JohnG** » October 21, 2015, 4:48 pm

It looks as if the grease box and the pipe to/from it are 1", but its hard to tell. If they're 1" that's adequate for a trap from a washing machine, but way too small for a kitchen sink drain and the pipe will clog in no time. If its 2" and that's the 4" sewage pipe next to it that's correct, but ...

you should avoid any 90 degree bends
in your pipes if possible and use 2 x 45's instead wherever you can. On an
inlet you lose pressure (8% per 90 if I
recall correctly) and on an outlet with any "solids" or fats you're that much
more likely to get a blockage. If that's your sewage pipe in the photo with a 90 in it change it and any others for 2 x 45's before you bury it.

Water flows downhill, but sewage doesn't do 90 degree corners too well on the flat. This is pretty basic stuff.

Post by **JohnG** » October 21, 2015, 6:08 pm

Just a thought on things running downhill. Your drainpipes should all have a 'downhill' drop of about 2cms per metre. and if its a long stretch of plastic pipe you need to allow for some 'sag' in the middle. If you haven't got that (and like the pipe size its hard to tell from the pics) you need to correct it now before anythings buried.That sort of drop should be easy to see by eye over a long length of pipe, but if you're not sure check with a level.

Post by **maaka** » October 21, 2015, 6:15 pm

I read you John
its a 2" check today..
I gave repeated instructions for no bends in the pipes, as it causes blockages..am with you on that, but many things have gone this way...there seems no reason for the bends either....will voice it again....are you a drainlayer by chance

Post by **kopkei** » October 21, 2015, 6:43 pm

all our drainpipes outside the wall are 3 inch , 2 is not big enough , even our shower pipes are all the way 3 inch ...
never any problem , as info...

Post by **waanjai** » October 21, 2015, 7:40 pm

kopkei wrote:all our drainpipes outside the wall are 3 inch , 2 is not big enough)

Especially advisable for the drainpipe leaving the washing maschine room. As clogging starts centimeters after the used water leaves the washing maschine. Reason is predominantly the "unstoppable" overdosage of washing powder. Having a bigger pipe helps to avoid the clogging or recurrent pipe cleaning.

Post by **jackspratt** » October 21, 2015, 7:50 pm

waanjai wrote:
kopkei wrote:all our drainpipes outside the wall are 3 inch , 2 is not big enough)
Especially advisable for the drainpipe leaving the washing maschine room. As clogging starts centimeters after the used water leaves the washing maschine. Reason is predominantly the "unstoppable" overdosage of washing powder. Having a bigger pipe helps to avoid the clogging or recurrent pipe cleaning.

I have had 2 inch pipes draining from both the shower room, and wash house, without a problem for the past 3 years.

Should I get the builders in to rip up both floors (tiled), and replace them with 3 inch?

Post by **waanjai** » October 21, 2015, 8:22 pm

jackspratt wrote:Should I get the builders in to rip up both floors (tiled), and replace them with 3 inch?

No, the recommendation to use bigger pipes is mostly directed to builders in the early phase of planning.
But You correctly describe the potential costs ("to rip up both floors (tiled)") of a late correction of a suboptimal decision. :-"

Post by **ronan01** » October 21, 2015, 8:25 pm

maaka wrote:I read you John
its a 2" check today..
I gave repeated instructions for no bends in the pipes, as it causes blockages..am with you on that, but many things have gone this way...there seems no reason for the bends either....will voice it again....are you a drainlayer by chance

Diameter depends on the length of the run, and the grade (Q=A.V).

Q = flow, A = pipe area, V = velocity of flow.

If its a long run on a shallow grade a larger size is better.

If its a short run with a reasonable grade then a smaller size - 2 inch - should do over 2-3 metres.

Increasing pipe grade increases velocity.

Long pipe runs and bends contribute to energy loss, which reduce velocity (V).

Slow flows allow sediment to build up.

Post by **maaka** » October 21, 2015, 8:26 pm

Voiced my concerns yet again, well after my plumbing plan was never followed, after my solar hot water system has been scraped, about the bends again, and blockages...'what blockage them..i no use toilet paper nor do you, so what block them...ahh what about farang guests we cant expect them to use water gun..i will tell them to throw tissue in plastic bag..ooooohh yuck..you cant do that.. .what I tell them to poo before visit...it my house I will tell them use plastic bag like they do at home hub and throw in rubishs......cant win john......we dont use loo paper and dont have washing machine

Post by **jackspratt** » October 21, 2015, 8:31 pm

waanjai wrote:
jackspratt wrote:Should I get the builders in to rip up both floors (tiled), and replace them with 3 inch?
No, the recommendation to use bigger pipes is mostly directed to builders in the early phase of planning.
But You correctly describe the potential costs ("to rip up both floors (tiled)") of a late correction of a suboptimal decision. :-"

Alternatively, you prescriptively describe what may be total over specification.

Why not 4 inch, or 5 inch? Is 3 inch not potentially suboptimal?