A friend of mine recently completed his house. He used Q Con blocks. He wanted to show me the difference in the blocks by taking me in the bath room where he had used regular concrete blocks. The bathroom wall felt like it had a heater built in, really warm. The walls in the rest of the house felt cool.
As for myself, I think I'd use the thin cheap blocks and build a double block wall with the wiring and insulation inside the double block walls. Since the bedroom and computer room office would be air conditioned, I'd use the Q Con blocks for the inside walls.
concrete concrete block or “autoclaved aerated concrete”,
concrete concrete block or “autoclaved aerated concrete”,
glalt - hmm, interesting variation.
JR - I don't recall reading about K-block, I will look into that more, thx.
JR - I don't recall reading about K-block, I will look into that more, thx.
concrete concrete block or “autoclaved aerated concrete”,
Something to think about when using Super Block, Q Con block or K block. Tracing electrical wiring after it's installed around here is a real trick as they typically use PVC conduit cut into the face of the block wall and then stucco over the cut. So you will need to get out your handy camera to snap pics of the installation for future reference.
Additionally installing the electrical conduit between the two walls could also lead to problems as the trades people doing the work are not very skilled at what they do and may be part time rice farmers. Even when they do install the electrical lines inside PVC conduit they rarely use junction boxes with the proper lock on connections so what you will encounter is a piece of PVC conduit stopping short of the junction box with the wires going into the junction box on their own. I've found that of all the trades here in LOS electricians seemed to be the worst. Reversed polarity at the outlet is common as is insufficient breakers, piss poor quality electrical outlets, undersized electrical cable, electrical tape being used for everything you can think of except what it was designed for, 2 wire sytems (no ground/earth) are the norm, undersized PVC conduit which the wires are forced into causing breaks in the plastic covering and eventual short circuits etc. Now don't forget the rats which seem to have a taste for electrical insulation.
A friend of mine installed his electrical conduit inside a chase which ran around the exterior perimeter of the house.
We used Super Block brand block in the entire house to include the interior walls and are quite happy with its insulating value. They come in a variety of thicknesses as well with the thicker block having higher "R" values.
Additionally installing the electrical conduit between the two walls could also lead to problems as the trades people doing the work are not very skilled at what they do and may be part time rice farmers. Even when they do install the electrical lines inside PVC conduit they rarely use junction boxes with the proper lock on connections so what you will encounter is a piece of PVC conduit stopping short of the junction box with the wires going into the junction box on their own. I've found that of all the trades here in LOS electricians seemed to be the worst. Reversed polarity at the outlet is common as is insufficient breakers, piss poor quality electrical outlets, undersized electrical cable, electrical tape being used for everything you can think of except what it was designed for, 2 wire sytems (no ground/earth) are the norm, undersized PVC conduit which the wires are forced into causing breaks in the plastic covering and eventual short circuits etc. Now don't forget the rats which seem to have a taste for electrical insulation.
A friend of mine installed his electrical conduit inside a chase which ran around the exterior perimeter of the house.
We used Super Block brand block in the entire house to include the interior walls and are quite happy with its insulating value. They come in a variety of thicknesses as well with the thicker block having higher "R" values.
An ex-pat in the Land of Smile
concrete concrete block or “autoclaved aerated concrete”,
We've used Super block which work well, they are of better quality than Q-con in my opinion. Grooves for PVC electricity pipes were cut into the wall with an angle grinder. Quite easy and fast, but a bit dusty.fdimike wrote:Something to think about when using Super Block, Q Con block or K block. Tracing electrical wiring after it's installed around here is a real trick as they typically use PVC conduit cut into the face of the block wall and then stucco over the cut. So you will need to get out your handy camera to snap pics of the installation for future reference.
The electricity PVC pipes are installed inside the blocks. They go straight up from the wall plugs to the ceiling, so I didn't have to take photo's of their location. All wires are inside PVC pipes in the walls. Above the ceiling (in the attic space), I used flexible PVC pipes and conjunction boxes. Earth/ground wall plugs in every room. Earth wire via the main breaker box into the ground with a 2 meter deep copper rod.
I did everything myself, everything according to European standards, with washing machine and water heater both on a completely different circuit and breaker.
Before I started I made a technical electrical circuit drawing of the whole house, with every wire on it. I used about 250 meter electrical wire (2.5 mm3 and 4mm3) and 150 meter PVC pipe. About one week work in total to install and connect everything.
concrete concrete block or “autoclaved aerated concrete”,
Smart man Frankie
An ex-pat in the Land of Smile
concrete concrete block or “autoclaved aerated concrete”,
"Double grey block wall with fiber glass in gap - 406bt per sqm (r value 9.5)"
I sent a Thai builder, who previuously said he did not know about double walling, this link....
http://www.coolthaihouse.com/constructi ... nsulation/
now he says he knows all about it... just like at the restaurant when you order something that the waiter
doesn't really understand, but he'll insist he does. I guess one picture is really worth a thousand words
I sent a Thai builder, who previuously said he did not know about double walling, this link....
http://www.coolthaihouse.com/constructi ... nsulation/
now he says he knows all about it... just like at the restaurant when you order something that the waiter
doesn't really understand, but he'll insist he does. I guess one picture is really worth a thousand words
concrete concrete block or “autoclaved aerated concrete”,
Maybe he thought he was looking at old cinder blocks and not overlapping properly either. Or he was looking at the brick wall which he "knows all about".
concrete concrete block or “autoclaved aerated concrete”,
Out of curiosity, why go for the double block with insulated insert rather than the aerated concrete blocks? Cost or added insulative value?
If the tops of the double walls aren't sealed, rats or tokaes will get in and rummage through the insulation. They don't seem to be affected by fiberglass.
If the tops of the double walls aren't sealed, rats or tokaes will get in and rummage through the insulation. They don't seem to be affected by fiberglass.
concrete concrete block or “autoclaved aerated concrete”,
I'm not convinced that the super-blocks are strong enough. A double block wall with insulation between the blocks looks to be quite a bit stronger. Super block interior walls for rooms that are air conditioned looks to be the answer.
concrete concrete block or “autoclaved aerated concrete”,
AAC blocks (Super-block, Q-block, Thaicon-block, K-block) are strong enough for infill walls.glalt wrote:I'm not convinced that the super-blocks are strong enough. A double block wall with insulation between the blocks looks to be quite a bit stronger. Super block interior walls for rooms that are air conditioned looks to be the answer.
But, you have to take care that you use the right wedge anchor bolts (strong and deep) when you want to hang something heavy like a kitchen cabinet on the wall.
concrete concrete block or “autoclaved aerated concrete”,
I did some calculations on price per sqm for each block including materials and labour:
7cm Q Con Block - 422bt per sqm (r value 3.25)
20cm Q Con Block - 734bt per sqm (r value 8.7)
Red brick - 202bt per sqm (r value 0.4)
Grey blocks - 179bt per sqm (r value 1)
Double grey block wall with fiber glass in gap - 406bt per sqm (r value 9.5)[/quote]
Hi
I am also considering using ACC block within a confined masonry structure (columns, beams).
I am concerned about the strength of the block as it sems they are not as strong as the European YTong.
Can anyone comment on their experience, especially the fixing of doors, windows etc. Are these fixed directly to the block or have you laid a lintel colume in the opening to which you fix the door or window.
Other comments based on experience will be helpful.
thanks to all in advance
7cm Q Con Block - 422bt per sqm (r value 3.25)
20cm Q Con Block - 734bt per sqm (r value 8.7)
Red brick - 202bt per sqm (r value 0.4)
Grey blocks - 179bt per sqm (r value 1)
Double grey block wall with fiber glass in gap - 406bt per sqm (r value 9.5)[/quote]
Hi
I am also considering using ACC block within a confined masonry structure (columns, beams).
I am concerned about the strength of the block as it sems they are not as strong as the European YTong.
Can anyone comment on their experience, especially the fixing of doors, windows etc. Are these fixed directly to the block or have you laid a lintel colume in the opening to which you fix the door or window.
Other comments based on experience will be helpful.
thanks to all in advance
concrete concrete block or “autoclaved aerated concrete”,
You have to lay a concrete sill, column and beam, the trouble is it always cracks between the two different surfaces, all it takes is a slamming door, I have used a lot of both methods and prefer concrete blocks. Airated blocks were popular in Aus years ago when they first came out, people tend to steer clear of them now.