Water pump cycling

[Landini]

Try close the valve on the pressure side of the pump.If it still start,something with the pump.

It won't cycle with the ball valve after the pump closed. I'll do that, or cut the elec. to stop it.

That's mean pump is ok. Leaking is after pump.

[bluejets]

If your pump installation has a bladder type pressure chamber, it may well be low air pressure in the bladder or damaged bladder.
Easy to identify, a schrader valve fitted to the top of the pressure chamber. (looks a bit like an upside down gas bottle)
Schrader valve same as tyre valve.

[eagle]

Just fired up the boiler today and it spewed air for quite awhile.

One question: How about your meter? Our pump does same (continious run) after some heavy rains, when they can not deliver full voltage/current. Similar could be, if meter does not accept all power consumption.

Means that pump is working to get enough pressure, but not enough power to do that. That couses pump to run all the time.

Boiler? How much it takes? If it takes 3000 W, it means that at least 12 A goes to that. 15 A meter and line can be in trouble, if far away from power stations. You did not tell, if that machine is a shower heater or is it really a big one, which warms water before use.

Somehow I connect that pump problem to that boiler installation.

Not sure of the power demand of the boiler but it's only a 70L with the furthest tap only about 5M away.

Thanks for all the input guys...it's all appreciated. =D> =D> =D>

Again: Did that problem came AFTER boiler installation? 70 L boiler can take between 1600 - 3000 Watts, meaning that ALL your incoming current goes to boiler, if you have 15 A meter. In real life current will be divided to all power equipments and lights are not so bright, fridge and A/C compressors do not work well and some other problems. Like water pump can not rise water more that 50-100 cm and it is often not enough. Closing valve after pump helps, but does not solve problem.

We had our pump working all time after thunderstorms and now I close pump and use only water from municipality that time. Reason for all time working was that we did not get full current. Fans worked slowly, A/C fan worked, but compressor not. Fridge had poor light, but no compressor.

Sound similar to your situation, but difficulty is that among electricity it could be leak (why now, when you installer boiler?), some part of the pump broken/worn or something not mentioned.

To exclude boiler, switch off it and then check what happens to pump.

[bluejets]

It's not that you are suffering a re-allocation of "current" in the system, it is voltage drop that causes the problems.

However, eagle is correct in the way to overcome the problem of voltage drop, partly at least.

Many installations there simple have mains that are way too small.(cabling form the meter to the switchboard)