Cleaning Pond Water
- beer monkey
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- beer monkey
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Yes concrete top to bottom and goes down to around 4 foot, which is a way too deep(i was'nt there at the time of excavation) for the size which is only around 2/3 meters in lenght and goes in a "L" shape with shelfs at the sides , have a normal dual pump(which i brought from UK couple years ago £80.00) which takes the water up the rear of the concrete and stone water fall, also it has a fountain to help the water on very hot days, its by no means perfect but Ok for the size, no biological/UV filters though,it all seems to survive OK, do get 'Green' periods though, sorry the top photo is not mine it was just an example for the type of fish but the bottom photo is, which you can see the fish in around 12" of water after that it gets darker , a full water change and a good clean-out works well, you will note that the top is in shallow water with a concrete base so will always look much cleaner and fresher.
i don't run the pump 24hours, mainly afternoon and early evening, or when needed.
i don't run the pump 24hours, mainly afternoon and early evening, or when needed.
- rickfarang
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- beer monkey
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BM - Thanks for the reply. Our pond goes down to over a meter at one end, I don't expect crystal clear water throughout but would like to be able to see the fish when they're near the top.... our guy is ready to concrete the pond throughout when we're ready (when the rain stops) he also suggested a shelf half way down the sides to put water plants on, he also knows where to get hold of some large rocks so we / he can build a waterfall at one end. I mentioned we could fill in some of the pond to make it shallower but he says its better to have it deep so the fish can dive low in the hot times of the day, we have no shade in this part of the garden yet, well, not until the trees grow that I planted as saplings last year....
So now its "stop bloody raining" and I can get on with it all.......
So now its "stop bloody raining" and I can get on with it all.......
- beer monkey
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sounds like it will be great when its done, might be worth thinking about a small wall only about 12" tall all round as it would be a nice place to sit , and a shelf is a must don't have to go alround though, i have two levels so its easier if you ever have to get in there and also to place plants.
Once everythings weathered and settled in and plants are growing and it soon comes to life.
My water fall see pic,it stands at 4 foot high, at the top you can just see the blue water pipe it runs up the back and into the top water trough and is normal plastic pipe with holes drilled in along the lenght as to get an even flow down the fall a decent underwater pump(seen them in town) with hose connected to the water pipe, all cost nothing to build apart from some inexpensive rocks,(try getting a variety of colours and styles of rock)and the pump of course.
Once everythings weathered and settled in and plants are growing and it soon comes to life.
My water fall see pic,it stands at 4 foot high, at the top you can just see the blue water pipe it runs up the back and into the top water trough and is normal plastic pipe with holes drilled in along the lenght as to get an even flow down the fall a decent underwater pump(seen them in town) with hose connected to the water pipe, all cost nothing to build apart from some inexpensive rocks,(try getting a variety of colours and styles of rock)and the pump of course.
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Waterfall looks good BM, our guy has drawn a picture of the fall he wants to put in, it has 3 levels and stands about 6 ft from the water level. The height isn't much of a worry as out new patio behind the bedroom is a little over a meter higher than the pond level. Thats where our seating will be.
Looks like we've got a break in the weather so hopefully we can get started soon....
Looks like we've got a break in the weather so hopefully we can get started soon....
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BM - Just a quiick thought, has normal concrete been used on your pond or has some kind of waterproofing agent added to the mix?
We made a start yesterday, cleared the hole of overhanging weeds, grass etc, and pumped out the remaining rain water, have to wait now for a day or 2 for the base to dry out, have put a cover over it with ventilation on the sides, just hope the rain holds off for a week or 2......
We made a start yesterday, cleared the hole of overhanging weeds, grass etc, and pumped out the remaining rain water, have to wait now for a day or 2 for the base to dry out, have put a cover over it with ventilation on the sides, just hope the rain holds off for a week or 2......
- beer monkey
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Will ask the bro-in law about the mix when we next speak to him, but my guess would be before i know for sure, would be just normal concrete, i was out of town at the time of construction so could'nt see what was happeneing its pretty tough anyway no signs of cracks or faults appearing over 3 years or so, as you probably know already don't introduce the fish to it straight away .
Can You Dig It Dug.?
- beer monkey
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just spoke to my man, and he said no special stuff mixed in the concrete just normal, he built it from blocks/bricks like he was building a wall(swimming pool) in the ground then rendered the sides and tops so it was purfectly square even on the edges, no cracks have appeared after several years, and at the moment what with the weather in Udon he tells me the water is virtually clear and the fish are very colourful and happy at the moment.Kudjap or Bust wrote:BM - Just a quiick thought, has normal concrete been used on your pond or has some kind of waterproofing agent added to the mix?
He even asked if i wanted a pool in the garden the built same way but tiled.
Can You Dig It Dug.?
- rickfarang
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The waterfall is a good idea - water bubbling down a wall of rocks will aerate the water, helping to keep it clear, and to also help keep the fish from trying to gulp air at the surface on hot days.
One thing I suggest before getting too far into this, Kudjap, is to read up on concrete fish ponds on the web. Concrete is alkaline. I recall reading advice to give such ponds several months and several water changes before putting fish into them. Much like we have to add acid to swimming pool water. But read up on it yourself -you may find a way to speed up the process (such as by using a swimming pool test kit and keeping the PH neutral "manually".
One thing I suggest before getting too far into this, Kudjap, is to read up on concrete fish ponds on the web. Concrete is alkaline. I recall reading advice to give such ponds several months and several water changes before putting fish into them. Much like we have to add acid to swimming pool water. But read up on it yourself -you may find a way to speed up the process (such as by using a swimming pool test kit and keeping the PH neutral "manually".
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Brown or green pond
Alge will cause the green color. Add a few ppm of Copper Sulfate and that will be finished. If its really, really green circulate the water before you add the copper sulfate. The dead alge will consume all the oxygen and kill the fish. The copper will do nothing to either fish, people or regular plants.
The brown color is clay from the soil, sediment will generally settle out for time to time. You can remove it by adding alum or aluminum sulfate at 1 or 2 ppm just prior to the filter, but it will just come back again from the soil and fish. Adding plants will clear up the water, some underwater stuff would be good, but the carp (goldfish) will generally eat anything so its difficult to grow stuff under the surface.
Brown water is just like the girls, some brown is better than others.
I worked in water treatment for a while.
Tom
The brown color is clay from the soil, sediment will generally settle out for time to time. You can remove it by adding alum or aluminum sulfate at 1 or 2 ppm just prior to the filter, but it will just come back again from the soil and fish. Adding plants will clear up the water, some underwater stuff would be good, but the carp (goldfish) will generally eat anything so its difficult to grow stuff under the surface.
Brown water is just like the girls, some brown is better than others.
I worked in water treatment for a while.
Tom
- beer monkey
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Would single rendered and tiled brick walls be enough for a swimming pool? I was told by a friend when he visited from the US the walls would need to be double brick with a gap in between them filled with reinforced concrete to put up with the water pressure..... I nearly went ahead and built one that way.....beer monkey wrote: he built it from blocks/bricks like he was building a wall(swimming pool)
He even asked if i wanted a pool in the garden the built same way but tiled.
- beer monkey
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Solar Water Fountain
I just happened across this ad, and immediately recalled this thread. If the claims for the product are anything like the truth, one or even two of these might be a fabulous addition to a fish pond, depending upon its size.
http://www.bargainoutfitters.com/cb/cb. ... 03340&pn=3
http://www.bargainoutfitters.com/cb/cb. ... 03340&pn=3
Garnet & Jack